June 02, 2022
By Dr. Jeslin Wong (MBBS SG, M.Med FM) from Lloyds Medical Group
In this post, I’ll be sharing my review of Dr. W!SH’s skincare products.
Read on if you are a skincare junkie like me who is into novel ingredients and research driven formulations.
My Review of Dr. W!SH’s First Glow Serum
It is a potent anti-pigment serum that targets excessive melanin on our skin.
Melanin is a black/brown pigment responsible for human skin color.
1. They are synthesised in specialized cells called melanocytes in the basal layer of epidermis, through a series of steps catalyzed by an enzyme called tyrosine.
2. Melanin are then transferred from melanocytes to the surrounding skin cells called keratinocytes.
This serum works by exfoliating existing dark pigments and preventing the formation of new dark spots by targeting the different phases of melanin synthesis, with its blend of topical brighteners such as niacinamide, kojic acid and retinols.
Prevent new dark spots
Correct existing dark spots
Before melanin synthesis - tyrosine transcription regulators
Retinoids (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol)
During melanin synthesis - tyrosine inhibitors
After melanin synthesis - melanin transfer inhibitors
Niacinamide, Retinoids (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol)
Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA): Salicyclic acid
A deep dive into one of the serum’s star ingredient - Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR).
It is a novel retinoid that delivers powerful anti-aging results of traditional retinoids (Vitamin A), minus the irritation. Some benefits of topical retinol use includes:-
1. Lightening of pigmentations.
2. Minimizing and reducing enlarged pores.
3. Improving the skin's texture with visible and tactile softening.
4. Providing a youthful glow.
5. Increased collagen and elastin production.
6. A reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.
7. Acting as an antioxidant.
8. Reducing sebum production.
9. Improving acne breakouts and blemishes.
10. Increasing hydration and a plumping effect of the skin.
Another significant advantage of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate over other forms of Vitamin A is its ingredient stability. Thermal stress tests have shown that hydroxypinacolone retinoate will remain stable and effective in the skin for up to 15 hours.
I like that the serum has a good mix of active ingredients for skin brightening sans irritation, with its gentler retinoid formulation and addition of moisturising, anti-inflammatory ingredients and antioxidants. My skin was not dry and did not peel as one may expect with acids and retinol. It is highly tolerable for daily use. It also did not cause my acne-prone skin to break out more.
As with every new product added to your skincare regime, I would suggest using a pea sized amount on a small area of your face and testing it out first, before applying to the entire face.
My Review of Dr. W!SH’s H.A. MaskIt is an ultra-fine microfibre sheet mask that has been specially formulated to hydrate, soothe and repair dry and irritated skin, with its star ingredients like beta-glucan and sodium hyaluronate.
Hyaluronic acid (H.A.) is a large molecule that works as a humectant by binding water (up to 1000 times its own weight in water) and penetrates only to the gap between the top layers of our skin. It hydrates, support the structure of our skin barrier, reduces fine lines and plumps our skin. Sodium hyaluronate is a salt form of H.A. which is more stable and less likely to oxidise with its smaller size.
Beta-glucan is a humectant moisturiser that attracts water to the top layers of skin, just like hyaluronic acid. This goodie is a big molecule composed of multiple smaller sugar molecules (polysaccharides) found in cell walls that are derived from various mushrooms, plants, algaes, yeasts or oats.
Key benefits includes:-
1. Immune-enhancing properties (protects skin from bacteria)
2. Anti-inflammatory and soothing (great for red and sensitive skin, or those with compromised skin barrier)
4. Anti-aging (reduces fine lines and wrinkles by reducing transepidermal water loss)
I like that it does not cause my acne-prone skin to break out, whilst deeply hydrating my skin. This is a favourite amongst patients post-ablative procedures, like lasers and radiofrequency microneedling. It aids in skin healing without causing any further irritation.
Topical H.A. formulations can only moisturise the epidermis as they too large to pass through the membrane that separates the epidermis from dermis. To replenish H.A. in the dermis, it has to be injected directly into the skin with injectable moisturisers such as Profhilo and Skin Boosters.
You may schedule an in-clinic consultation with your doctor to find out if this is right for you.
May 21, 2020
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